Door Installation Cost Calculator
Door Installation costs $2,825 to $4,275 for a typical 2 doors job in 2026, against a national benchmark of $3,450. Labor runs 8.5 crew hours at $34.37 an hour. Enter a ZIP code to apply that area's measured wages for this work and its regional price level.
What makes up the price
Cost by size
National averages, before any local adjustment. Computed from the same model as the calculator above, so the two always agree.
| Number of doors | Doors | Typical | Range |
|---|---|---|---|
| 1 doors | 1 | $1,850 | $1,525 to $2,300 |
| 2 doors | 2 | $3,450 | $2,825 to $4,275 |
| 3 doors | 3 | $5,050 | $4,150 to $6,275 |
Which door do you mean?
"Door installation" covers jobs that differ by a factor of ten, so this is worth settling before any figure means anything.
| Typical installed, each | Why | |
|---|---|---|
| Interior door | $350 to $800 | Cheap slab, no weather to keep out |
| Storm door | $300 to $600 | Screws to the existing trim |
| Steel entry door | $1,275 | Pre-hung unit, sill pan, flashing, lockset |
| Fiberglass entry door | $1,850 | The default exterior replacement |
| Sliding patio door | $2,000 | Heavy unit, track must be dead level |
| French pair | $2,725 | Two leaves, astragal, two locksets |
| Solid wood entry door | $2,975 | Heaviest unit, most careful fitting |
The calculator above prices exterior doors. If you are replacing hallway and bedroom doors, go to interior door installation instead — the figure here will be four or five times too high.
Why an exterior door costs four times an interior one
The slab is only part of it, and not the biggest part.
An interior door separates two heated rooms. Nothing has to be kept out, so the unit is a hollow or solid-core slab in a light frame and the install is hang it, case it, fit a passage set.
An exterior door is a hole in the building envelope at its lowest point, and the work reflects that:
- A sill pan under the sill, to drain anything that gets past the threshold back outside.
- Flashing integrated with the house wrap and siding above and either side.
- A weather seal on three sides plus an adjustable threshold at the bottom.
- A lockset and deadbolt, and a strike that should be anchored into framing.
- Plumb and square to a tolerance that an interior door does not need, because a door that binds or shows daylight is a draft and a water path rather than an annoyance.
That is about five hours of work against one and a half, on a unit that costs four times as much. Hence the cliff.
Doing several at once saves less than you would think
A real saving, but a modest one, and worth knowing before you batch jobs on the expectation of a discount:
| Fiberglass doors | Total | Each |
|---|---|---|
| 1 | $1,850 | $1,850 |
| 2 | $3,450 | $1,725 |
| 3 | $5,050 | $1,683 |
| 4 | $6,650 | $1,663 |
About 10% from the first door to the fourth, and nearly all of it in the first step. The reason is that only the setup, floor protection and haul-away happen once — everything else is per door, and the unit itself is most of the cost.
This is the opposite of windows, where batching matters a great deal because the per-unit labor is a bigger share. If you need two doors, do them together. If you need one, do not wait to accumulate a second.
The exception is where several doors share one scope item: a single permit, one scaffold, one siding repair across two adjacent openings. Then ask, because the saving is real and specific.
Exterior or interior is not the only split
Three other things on the calculator above move the price more than the door does, and all three are things to establish before a quote rather than after.
The opening. Reusing an existing opening is the cheap case and most replacements are that. Widening it adds about 35%. Cutting a new opening adds about 90%, because it means a header sized for the span, temporary support while it goes in, then siding, flashing, insulation, drywall and trim to make the wall good — and on a load-bearing wall it is a structural decision, not a carpentry one.
What the door sits on. A door is the lowest penetration in a wall, so whatever has been getting past the old threshold has gone into the sill plate, the rim joist and the subfloor. Soft framing adds about 18% and genuine rot about 40%, and none of it is visible until the unit comes out. Press the threshold and the trim either side with a screwdriver before anybody quotes — there is more on this at front door replacement.
Pre-hung or slab. On an exterior door, pre-hung almost always: the old frame is usually the part the water has aged worst, and a slab leaves the old sill and weather seal in place, which is most of what you were trying to fix. On an interior door a slab is more often reasonable, because the frame has had nothing done to it.
What should be in the quote
Line by line, because these are the items that go missing:
- The unit — make, model, material, and whether pre-hung.
- A sill pan. Ask for it by name, $35 to $55, and the single most-omitted item.
- Flashing and how it ties into the existing wrap or siding.
- The lockset, or a clear note that you are supplying it.
- Exterior trim or brick molding, and interior casing.
- Painting or finishing, or a clear note that it is primed and yours to paint. Primed is not weatherproof.
- Removal and disposal of the old door. Many installers bill this separately at $100 to $500.
- Permit, where one is needed — more often once the opening size changes.
- A rate for rot, not a shrug. If nobody will give you one, that is your answer about how the day will go.
Questions worth asking
- Which doors, and are any of them interior? Different job, different price.
- Pre-hung or slab?
- Is a sill pan in the quote?
- Is the opening staying the same size?
- What happens, and what does it cost, if there is rot in the sill?
- Is the old door hauled away, and is that included?
- Factory finished or primed?
- Is the strike plate being anchored into the stud? The cheapest security upgrade there is.
- If several doors: does anything here only happen once? That is where a batch discount actually lives.
Common questions
How much does door installation cost?
It depends entirely on which kind of door. Interior doors run $350 to $800 each and storm doors $300 to $600. Exterior doors are a different job: steel $1,275, fiberglass $1,850, a sliding patio door $2,000, a French pair $2,725 and solid wood $2,975. Two fiberglass exterior doors together come to about $3,450, or $1,725 each. The calculator above prices exterior doors, so if you are replacing hallway doors the figure here is four or five times too high.
Why do exterior doors cost so much more than interior doors?
Because an exterior door is a hole in the building envelope at its lowest point. It needs a sill pan to drain water back outside, flashing tied into the house wrap and siding, a weather seal on three sides, an adjustable threshold, a lockset and deadbolt with the strike anchored into framing, and it has to be plumb and square to a tolerance an interior door does not — because a door that binds or shows daylight is a draft and a water path. That is about five hours of work against one and a half, on a unit costing four times as much.
Is it cheaper to install several doors at once?
A little, but less than most people expect. One fiberglass door is $1,850, two are $1,725 each, three $1,683 and four $1,663 — about 10% from the first to the fourth, with nearly all of it in the first step. Only the setup, floor protection and haul-away happen once; everything else is per door, and the unit itself is most of the cost. So if you need two, do them together — but if you need one, there is no reason to wait and accumulate a second.
How long does it take to install a door?
About five hours for an exterior door into a sound existing opening, including removal, the sill pan, dry fitting, shimming to plumb, fastening, foaming, flashing, the threshold seal, the lockset and the trim. A French pair takes nearer six because the two leaves have to align with each other as well as the frame, and a slider five because the track must be shimmed dead level. An interior door is nearer an hour and a half. Resizing the opening or finding rot turns any of them into a full day.
Should I buy a pre-hung door or a slab?
Pre-hung on an exterior door, almost always — the old frame is usually the part the weather has aged worst, and a slab leaves the old sill, jamb and weather seal in place, which is most of what you were trying to fix. On an interior door a slab is more often reasonable, since the frame has had nothing working on it. Pre-hung means the door arrives already hung in a new frame with hinges mortised, sill attached and weatherstripping fitted.
How much does it cost to cut a new door opening?
About 90% on top of the door, so a fiberglass door into a new opening is near $3,525 rather than $1,850. The work is a header sized for the span, temporary support while it goes in, then siding, flashing, insulation, drywall and trim to make the wall good again. On a load-bearing wall it is a structural decision rather than a carpentry one, so ask who sized the header. Widening an existing opening is cheaper at about 35%, since the framing is altered rather than created.
Do I need a permit to install a door?
Often not for a like-for-like replacement in an existing opening, but frequently yes once the size changes or a new opening is cut, and the rules vary by jurisdiction. Permits commonly run $50 to $150. Worth asking about separately is removal and disposal of the old door, which many installers bill at $100 to $500 rather than including — it is one of the commonest additions after the fact.
What is most often left out of a door quote?
The sill pan, at $35 to $55 — the molded tray under the sill that drains water back outside, which nobody will ever see again once the door is in, which is exactly why it gets skipped. After that: the lockset, exterior brick molding and interior casing, painting or finishing on a primed unit, removal and disposal of the old door, and any rate for dealing with rot. Ask for each as a line, particularly the rot rate — if nobody will give you one, that tells you how the day will go.
What is the best material for an exterior door?
Fiberglass for most situations. It does not dent, rust, rot or warp, holds paint far longer than steel, insulates best of the three, and takes a convincing woodgrain finish — for about $575 more installed than steel. Steel makes sense on a side door, a garage-to-house door or a rental where budget decides, bearing in mind a dent is permanent. Solid wood looks the best and needs a porch roof over it; unsheltered, it will cup and check and need refinishing every few years.
Which door type should I choose for a patio?
A slider if swing space is tight, which it usually is — a slider needs none, and it is the cheaper of the two at about $2,000 against $2,725 for a French pair. A French pair gives a much wider clear opening when both leaves are open and looks better closed, but it needs the floor space to swing into and it is the fussier install, since the two leaves have to align with each other as well as with the frame. Both come off the same calculator above.
What is the cheapest worthwhile door upgrade?
Long screws into the stud behind the strike plate, or a reinforced strike box. Most forced entries go through the jamb rather than the door — the latch tears the strike plate out of trim held by short screws — so this is more effective than a better lock on an unreinforced frame, and it costs almost nothing. Ask whether the installer does it as standard; many do not.
Where these numbers come from
Nothing here is copied from a contractor directory. Labor is priced from what the trades are actually paid, materials from published producer prices, and both are adjusted to your area using federal cost-of-living data.
- Finish carpentry contractors, United States: $34.37/hour, August 2026 (BLS CES CES2023835003)
- Fiberglass entry door, pre-hung: $850.00 per door (price recorded October 2026, not index-adjusted)
- Sill pan, flashing, foam, shims and lockset: $165.00 per door (price recorded October 2026, not index-adjusted)